I agree, it's not a fair question. I have a single stage press. I've never seen a multi stage in operation.
if it wasn't for Lee & Midwayusa selling a $30 press and $25 dies I would of never gotten into reloading, I'd still be like "I want to reload but can't afford it".
my setup is extremely minimal, my whole thing probably cost less than your press.
- Lee Single Stage Press: the cast aluminum one, $30
- Lee Carbide Dies Set: contains a full length size, carbide if possible, expander die, bullet set/crimp die, and "factory crimp die". powder dipper, load table, shell holder. all for about $25.
- Lee Auto Prime XR: hand-held priming tool. $25
- Lee Magnetic Powder Scale: said to be unbreakable. $20 (I used the dippers for as long as I could but eventually decided to do it properly and actually measure my charges)
- Lee Perfect Powder Measure: $22
- Lee Case Chamfer & Primer Pocket cleaning tools: $12
- My "bench" was some wood I picked out of the scrap pile at Home Depot. cost be 60 cents. I don't have space for a proper bench, I just have it mounted to some 2x6's that can be clamped down to any table for use. I mounted my Perfect Powder Measure to the same 2x6 block as the press. my bench was originally unsealed, it was just smooth bare wood. the soot and bits of spilled powder got it blacked quickly, I decided it's best to finish the wood. I used shellac, which was a bad choice since it turns out the case lube I use strips off the shellac. I recommend using polyurethane to finish the wood.
- I did not list the case lube. I initially started loading pistol ammo, which I have carbide dies for- you don't need to lube if using carbide dies. it was much later I started loading rifle cartridges that had a bottleneck case, which requires lube. I bought the cheapest MidwayUSA has to offer. Frankford Arsenal spray-on lube. cost me 6 bucks. works fine but attacked the shellac that i sealed my reloading bench with... I had to stop loading for a weekend to remove hte shellac and re-seal using polyurethane.
- I do not have a tumbler yet. i don't think it's nessecary. my brass is fairly clean and if they get dirty I'll just toss them in the recycling pile.
- though i load bottlenecked cartridges now I don't have a case trimmer yet. I have too much brass, i can go without one for a couple months before the "case needs trimming" pile outgrows the "once-fired" pile.
all in all my reloading setup cost around $120.
if you go super-minimal and use hte Lee Dippers instead of scale/powder measure you can do it for $86. which is what i did for about 4 months. the Lee Dippers work fine, makes consistent loads but its not the most economical method. the Dippers require you to stick that that Lee loads table exactly.
I'm gonna make a second opinion on those reloading questions.
Is reloading safe?
If you stick to the load data provided by the powder manufacture or your reloading manual, yes it's safe.
there are some precautions to take here and there, and you need to pay attention while loading, but it's not complicated for hard.
the basic fire and handling safety of powders & primers needs to be observed. primers are pretty rugged to shock and rough handling, but please don't just toss them around. they should be stored in a dry, cool, dark place. powders are very flammable, store like any other super-flammable object: dry, cool, dark place.
you need to pay attention to loading, you don't want to double charge a case or forget to put primers in, attempt to prime an already primed case, seat bullets too deep, etc. if you stick to the starting loads it's ok if you're a little bit off, absolute precision and attention to detail is not required.
and for obvious reasons, don't smoke, light incense, etc when reloading.
I shoot my handloads through guns that cost a grunch of money.
I'm not rich like most people, I started reloading because I'd save money. I don't have any expensive guns.
My two most pricey guns is my new Savage 11G at $495 and my WASR-10 at $600.
the rest of my collection, including pistols, stay below the $300 mark, tax, FFL, background check included.
I load 9mm, 44mag, 7.62x54r, 500 S&W Magnum and .223 Remington.
my 9mm is a Hi Point C9. it cost me $145.
my 44mag is a Uberti Cattleman SAA that I got used, it was $200
my .500 S&W Mag is a H&R carbine that I got new for $275. (no, not the revolver, although i was tempted)
my 7.62x54r is two Mosin Nagants, both under $100 each.
my .223 Remington is my new Savage 11G.
none of these guns "cost a bunch of money". well maybe the Savage. to me that was quite expensive.
The secret is in the preparation.
+1 You must pay attention.
If you let your attention wander there is no telling what you are going to wind up with.
You should never play the radio or tv while you are loading.
Your focus must be on what you are doing.
+1 There are a couple of steps that don't require many brain cells.
Decapping and sizing, if you miss a case no big deal you will catch it when you try to prime it.
Expanding, again not a super big deal, if you miss one you will catch it when you try to set the bullet.
>> one thing that is missed: if reloading bottlenecked cases or using steel sizing dies, don't forget to lube the cases and die or it'll bring your operation to a grinding halt!
+1 What causes many of the problems with reloads is the bullet used.
Some guns are picky about the ammunition the will feed.
I had some lead 9mm that was given to me that would not work in either of my Lone Wolf 9mm barrels.
It fed and fired fine in a Ruger P89.
Nothing wrong with the basic load my aftermarket barrels just did not like it.
+1 Sometimes it has to do with the powder charge, a load might be too mild.
During workup I developed a 45acp load that had just enough umph to cycle the action of a G21.
I also had a 9mm load that was so inaccurate as to be useless.
I changed to a different brand 9mm bullet and the problem was solved, the aftermarket barrel just did not like it.
+1 I would start with a single station press.
But it recommend Lee. inexpensive, particularly important to those on a tiny budget, easy to use and love their die sets, it has everything you need to load!
Savings vary. its depends on how cheap you want to go or what kind of round you want.
typically accuracy costs money. if you want some cheap range rounds you can still save 25% over the cheapest range reloads in your area.
I started with 9mm. in my opinion it's easiest to load. short case, you CANNOT double charge, there's a considerable visual difference. And if you have a Hi Point, if your new batch is a bit hot or light you'd feel it but your gun won't explode.
Sort your cases first, check for damages, dings, nicks, corrosion or cracks. damaged cases should not be used. I've never sorted by brand.
Stick to the load table provided by your dies/press manufacturer first, pick a bullet type/weight that's common. when you feel you're ready, you can start exploring other loads.
when I started with 9mm I just picked a load using Power Pistol for 115 grain FMJ bullets. after about 1200 rounds I started to deviate very slightly, loading slightly hotter or lighter or using different bullets that's only a little bit different.
I eventually developed a light target/plinking load, a "match" load (the one that's most accurate) and a generic load that's in the middle. I'd load in batches of 25 rounds that is only like 1 grain powder difference.
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